I wanted to get off the beaten path and really get a feel for Panama, and we definitely did that on the Azuero Peninsula. Although Canadian and some America expats were everywhere, the town of Pedasi was still very quaint, with not a single souvenir shop in sight. As Jim mentioned in his earlier post, the local beach was full of fisherman and had cheap ($1) beers, but it  was lacking in amenities, i.e., a comfortable place to sit and hang out for a few hours.

So we headed about 40 minutes south to what is considered the best beach in the area, Venao. It’s known as a surfer beach. We didn’t find the waves very impressive, but it was mostly populated by surfers and people younger and hipper than us (which is most people these days.)

There were a number of beach bars and a couple hotels – enough to find a place to relax and get a beer – but not built up with condos and fancy homes like in shore towns in the U.S., and other now overbuilt vacation spots. It occupies a horseshoe shaped bay with a beach that stretches for about three miles.

We hung at a beachfront restaurant called El Sitio. It had a laid back vibe with cozy couches. You could sit for hours and not be bothered by anyone. We spent two days here walking the beach, bouncing around in the gentle waves and generally chilling. We did do a decent hike on the second day, but that just made the ocean that much more refreshing.

Our lodging in Pedasi was not the highlight of the trip. As a Canadian couple we got friendly with said, it was like being at camp. Rooms in concrete bunkers, soaps in those tiny packets you get in places like Motel 6. That said, it was probably the nicest hotel in Pedasi and the owner, also a Canadian, was very nice and helpful. It was all part of the experience.

We had even more ‘experiences’ on the road to our next destination. What was supposed to be a 4.5 hour drive was going to be extended by at least an hour due to road closures on Panama’s Highway 1, according to Google maps. We have no idea if the road was actually closed, but we took the conservative approach and used the alternate route that Google suggested.

The detour was actually more beautiful than the PanAmerican highway would have been, but it was a white knuckle drive in some parts, with switchbacks going up and down mountainous terrain. Jim had to navigate more horses than cars, but the occasional truck would barrel down the narrow road taking up more than its one lane. Good thing Jim enjoys driving.

Our next stop, on the Gulf of Chiriqui, took us to one of the farthest points west in the country. We could even see Costa Rica from our boat trip the next day. Happily, the location and hotel was all I had hoped for and more. Our floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the gulf, and we’re surrounded by tropical plants, birdsong and in the morning the braying of howler monkeys waking up. It brought back memories of our beloved vacation spot in Mexico, Ocho Cascadas, so we’re already thinking about returning.

We spent a few hours on a boat tour exploring the area, including walking a deserted beach, swimming in the warm, clear water and looking for dolphins. Overall a nice break from driving and touring.