Uppsala

Uppsala was the final stop on this trip, and the reason we came to Scandinavia – to attend my niece Casey’s graduation from Uppsala University.

Casey with her Master’s certificate

Casey had been studying in New Zealand (where we also visited her), and intended to go back for her Masters when Covid intervened. When the world opened up again she discovered a Masters program at Uppsala that offered what she wanted, so she packed her bags for two years in Sweden.

Uppsala is a charming college town, home to the oldest university in Sweden (founded in 1471), and a nice change from busy and touristy Stockholm. Casey kept us occupied as we visited both her personal favorite places (e.g., the window seat in the library where she prefers to study) and more famous sites. 

Among the famous sites is the Cathedral, visible from our hotel window and a short walk away. It’s the largest cathedral in Scandinavia and final resting place of many kings, queens and notables. 

In addition to having Casey’s favorite window seat, the Uppsala University Library holds a range of important documents dating from antiquity to the 19th century. One of these, the Codex Argenteus, dating from the 6th century, is a translation of the four Gospels into Gothic. It’s also called “The Silver Bible” because the text is written with gold and silver inks on purple parchment, giving it a silver sheen. Also displayed is the Carta Marina. Printed in 1539, it’s the first map to correctly render the main features of the Nordic area.

A short walk away are 16 rune stones dating from the 11th century, including “The Woman’s Stone,” a rare example of a rune stone dedicated to a woman, and another that was built and dedicated by a man to himself while he was still alive. 

One of the 11th century rune stones

If I weren’t geeking out enough already on history, we took two bus rides to other famous historic sites. 

Gamla Uppsala has over 300 burial mounds dating from the 6th to 12th centuries. While the history is fascinating (legend has it that some of the mounds hold the remains of pre-Viking kings who appeared in Beowulf), it was also a really pleasant place to stroll on yet another unseasonably warm Scandinavian afternoon. 

Burial mounds in Gamla Uppsala

Our last day trip was to Sigtuna, founded about 980 CE and containing Sweden’s oldest main street. I had anticipated (feared) a “cute little town” that was over-commercialized and cheesy, but it wasn’t at all. There were of course a few shops, but it was generally a quiet, quaint town with a nice waterfront, church and another rune stone. Proof that there are still unspoiled places to visit. 

Graduation day dawned windier and cloudier than previous days, with a chance of rain. Really, after three weeks of sunny Scandinavian days it was going to rain? Luckily, the rain held off until after the ceremony so all the special outfits survived intact.  It also happened to be high school graduation day in Uppsala, where the students ride around in rented trucks, wear sailor hats and get drunk. It certainly added to the festive feel of the day!

Conversely, the university graduation was a simple and elegant affair, with a Swedish women’s choir singing before and after the presentation of certificates, and each student called out individually. But the feeling was no less celebratory.

We are immensely proud of Casey and look forward to watching and cheering as she takes on her next challenge.

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