Chilling in Hanoi

Hanoi at night from a hotel sky bar.

Our final day in Saigon involved a trip to view the remnants of the Cu Chi Tunnels, which were located about 30 miles from Saigon. We later had a final dinner for our travel group of 16. Six of us continued on for an extended tour of Vietnam, flying to Hanoi the following morning. The others headed back to the U.S.

Part of the Cu Chi tunnel network

The tunnels were originally a 125-mile long maze of hidden bunkers, ammunition storage areas, mess halls, hospital and triage centers, and workshops where the Viet Cong devised a number of devious and deadly traps for their enemies.

The tunnels were originally started during the French IndoChina war, then expanded during the period of American involvement. It’s what allowed Viet Cong soldiers to hide and fight and blend in with villagers during the day.

Not sure if it’s clear, but there is a crater in this image from a U.S. bombing.

The tunnels were extensively bombed by U.S. B-52s and evidence of the huge bomb craters remain. Most of the area has been returned to local people for farming and other development, but the government has maintained a small segment for visitors.

The hole in this rock helped bring air into the tunnels.
One of the horribly inventive “booby” traps devised by the VC

The story is obviously told from the Vietnamese perspective; I’m sure any U.S. veterans who did battle in the area have less than fond memories of their existence. It was interesting to visit, but despite their relatively close proximity to the city, it still took us 2.5 hours each way to reach, so it was kind of a slog for a 90-minute visit.

We did enjoy lunch at a local home that is supported with visits from Overseas Adventure Travels. The food was good, and the woman who prepared it related stories of her childhood in the area during the war years. Lovely woman, no animosity towards us Americans despite the hardships she and her family endured during the war.

The following day we left for the airport around 7:30 am. Since it was a domestic flight we just had to do the normal security check. It was our second flight on Vietnam Airways and both were smooth and comfortable. After arrival we met up with our guide for the week, Thai. As he says, his name is Thai, but he’s 100% Vietnamese.

Our Hanoi guide cutting a green mango that he’d just bought from this vendor.

The big change upon arrival in Hanoi was the weather. We knew it was going to be colder, as in going from average daytime highs in the 90s to the mid-50s. And we knew it could be dreary, but it was still hard to get used to it. It’s a damp cold. The sun is obscured by a persistent cloud cover, almost like the “marine layer” one encounters in Northern California. A little sun would make a huge difference.

Many of us ended up buying an extra layer, or in some cases an entirely new coat. Pat grabbed hers from a street vendor outside of our hotel. It’s not good quality, pure polyester, but it’s keeping her warm enough and cost all of $12.

A Hanoi street.

We didn’t do a whole lot on the first day. We were a little hungry so Thai took us to a little spot across from the hotel for a bowl of pho, the ubiquitous noodle soup available throughout the country. But the northern version differs from what we got in the south. In the south they add a lot a vegetables like bok choy and green onions, and it tends to be beef based.

In Hanoi, it’s a chicken stock with pieces of chicken and rice noodles. Very simple. You can spice either version up with chilis if desired. It was tasty and filling, so much so it dulled my appetite a bit for the welcome dinner at a local restaurant later that evening, but we still managed to chow down a bit.

This is just some of the stuff for sale to Vietnamese preparing for celebrating Tet, the Lunar New Year, starting on February 8. It is a HUGE deal here. People prep for days of food and partying.

We had an orientation walk around the hotel, which is located in the old French Quarter of the city. Hanoi was the capital of French IndoChina and the street layout feels very Parisian — narrow and winding. Traffic, however, is even more chaotic than in Saigon.

Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of the Hanoi Old Quarter. It’s a popular spot to stroll around as the scooters aren’t supposed to drive on the walkway.

Saigon has wider streets, and while crossing the street there was daunting, drivers did generally obey things like stop lights. Here, not so much. It is playing chicken a bit to cross, and we had to accept that the scooter drivers are going to dart around you. Ah well, I’m sure we will get by.

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