We know a lot of people probably think we were crazy to come here, but while the culture is different, I never felt threatened in any way in Istanbul, and we walked quite a bit. I guess Americans are in the minority of visitors, however, because the Turks trying to get you to sit at their restaurants and the like first ask if you are German, or Australian, or maybe Canadian. The most interesting thing is the push-pull between the secularists and the growing influence of the conservative and more devout Muslims. Yes, we saw a lot more women in burkas than I expected, but in part I think it was a function of us staying in the old city near the Blue Mosque and other venerated locales. (The Saudis and others from the Gulf region travel as tourists as well.) But even among the Turks there are many women in headscarves and covering their arms and legs. Many of the local women were also styling to be sure, with colorful scarves, high heels, designer slacks and makeup. Pat and I noticed one woman in particular, outside of a shop as we rode by, who was particularly striking. Then there was the woman last night covered head to toe in the traditional black garb smoking a cigarette.  Ah, don’t think that is part of the program.

That aspect bothered our guide Lale and tour company contact Ezgi, as they are secularists. Ezgi was quite animated about it when we met her for lunch, which was a nice surprise. (She was doing some customer service, asking what we thought of her country, but we appreciated the opportunity to meet.) It I’ll be interesting to see how it will play out. People like her are fine with the conservative Muslims following the traditional customs, but they don’t want to lose their rights not to do so. We are facing similar thinking from the Bible thumpers at home who want to use their religious beliefs as an excuse to ignore the Constitution, but enough of that for a travel blog. Here is a picture of us with our guide.