We are lucky enough to have a Zulu guide (Sandiso), leading our bush drives and walk, and we had a very talkative driver (Patrick), also a Zulu, take us from our hotel to the airport in Johannesburg.

Although Sandiso said they are losing their traditions “left, right and center,” they still preserve some, especially regarding the spirits of their forebears.  One tradition is bringing back the spirit of a relative who died away from home. Three people, an elder, someone very close to the person, and someone who will communicate with the spirit (all must be relatives), travel to the place the person died. They bring a Buffalo Thorn branch, which has thorns pointing both ahead and back, and they attempt to bring the spirit back to their home via that branch, where they will be able to rest.

Patrick told us about a custom meant to ask the spirits for luck. I’ll keep it brief, but it involves unfiltered beer and spitting on stones. That prompted me to tell him about the Catholic custom of burying a statue of St. Joseph upside down in front of the house you want to sell. He found that quite interesting.  You never know when you’ll have a cultural exchange while traveling!

We weren’t able to visit the village, but we’re told it’s quite poor. At least they have electricity, though. Sandino’s village does not. On our drive to St. Lucia we saw women carrying barrels of water from the one tap the entire village uses. I also saw children scooping water into bottles from puddles.

On the other hand, the nearest city, Richards Bay has mining and paper industries, as well as a busy deep water port. And St. Lucia, which is also part of the overall area, struck Jim and I as a typical beach town (except for the hippos!) – a study in contrasts.