Chicha, Chickens & the Road to Valpo

Valpo is the local shorthand for Valparaiso, our latest destination. There is much to relate still about our four days in Atacama but we had what was probably one of the most entertaining airport transfers ever. Valpo is about 90 minutes northwest of Santiago, which we flew back to in the morning. We were met by local travel agent Leonora and her driver partner Jorge. What a pair.  We had what might have been one of the more interesting airport transfers ever with these two. 
It starts with Jorge forgetting to pay the parking fee and having to turn around at the gate. Kind of funny but he’s embarrassed and comes back with some roasted almonds to make amends after paying the tab. Fair enough as it wasn’t that big a deal to us. Both are very outgoing though Jorge doesn’t speak any English but he is very knowledgable. The next thing we know we are taking  a little side trip to taste chicha, which is a cheap fermented beverage that is a favorite in Chile and throughout the Andes. It can be made from corn, peaches, you name it, and versions of it pre-date the Spanish conquest of South America. It is fermented in stone vats and when finished and sold has to be drunk within a couple of weeks or it turns to vinegar. There are multiple versions, including one that is akin to grappa. We tasted them all, plus a taste of a special concoction the locals call the “Earthquake,” which is a mix of chichas, brandy, grenadine, Fernat and a dollop of ice cream.  You get the drift; drink enough and the earth feels like it’s moving. Oh, and then there was the tour of the production facilities. For those that have done winery tours, let’s just say this wasn’t Napa Valley, but it was great fun.
Next, Leonora asks us if we realize that our planned winery tour on Saturday to the Colchagua Valley will take us at least four hours each way from Valparaiso. Uh, the short answer was no. Of course they had an alternative, which was a visit to a closer wine region. That deal was done over empanadas at a roadside eatery, complete with a rooster and a couple of hens hovering nearby. Talk about some local culture. We will see what today’s excursion brings.
As for Valparaiso itself, it’s definitely a change from the desert. It is an old port city on hillsides that overlook a bay. It’s funky but charming. We ate dinner at an Italian-themed restaurant that started a surge in newer non-traditional eateries about five years ago. There were no chickens at our feet at this place. There are a lot of brightly colored buildings painted with murals. A very artsy town.
Above is the view from our window at Hotel Manoir Atkinson. Below is the hotel’s rooftop terrace and a view of the city below.

One comment

  1. sounds like lots of fun dining outdoors with the chickens. you also seem to be right in with the locals drinking Chica. I like the photo taken thru t he hotel window.that's very cool. Pat you look quite happy i nthe photo – looks a bit windy — how is the weather at this location –getting mighty nippy here. have you a favorite spot now that your trip is nearing the end–I'd like to know your favorite place.Mom

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